Its fair to say that some stuff was supped at the Great British Beer Festival 30th birthday gig.
Despite being largely ignored by the national media - beer guru Roger Protz points out that Hobson’s Mild victory made only a 'short' in most daily newspapers - Camra has hailed it a great success. Well, they would, wouldn't they. But the evidence is there, with some record 70,000 visitors enjoying more than 300,000 pints. And it’s not only in the sheer numbers; an eclectic range of punters are now venturing to the mecca of real ale alongside the veteran cask-ale Taliban.
I encountered several drinkers who were out of the stereotype kilter. They included executive chef Jitin Josh who was there researching ale to accompany the great east-west nosh he turns out at top Mayfair restaurant Benares. And he was actually enjoying the beer. Then there was Cedric the Frenchman who has become a real-ale fanatic since hopping across the Channel a few years ago and the lovely Nicole and Sarah (see below ).
Cedric and the girls
I took in a beer with several independent brewers too. Suffice to say that all seem to be booming. Moorhouse’s of Burnley reported beer ‘flying out’ and Acorn of Barnsley was poised for a move this month to a new brewery, thereby doubling capacity to a 20 barrel brew length. Several others reported very healthy sales, confounding the gloom and doom merchants. Beer sales may be declining overall, but the evidence suggests that the 600 or so micro/independent brewers are seeing a steadily increasing market for their ales. Long may it continue. We can all help by going for the quality rather than that industrially produced stuff.
On my return to Chester, the first port of call was Harkers*. I was ready for something nice and easy, maybe Greene King IPA I thought, that wouldn’t stress the taste buds too much. But no chance. York Cascade beckoned like a naughty window show in Amsterdam. With bags of grapefruit and citrus hops, it slipped down the glass like hoppy flavoured cream - another victory for the golden beer school with floral notes and a long bitter finish. The taste buds gave in without much of a fight.
While in Harkers the word ‘interesting’ once again fell from drinkers' lips as they took their first tentative sip of something new. It’s an expression that often echoes around the GBBF. But, as displayed at the festival, the range of beers now available in the UK is not simply interesting - it’s fantastic, encompassing a massive range of aromas and tastes that display the huge breadth and depth of British brewing style. And that's something we should all celebrate.It's far too good to leave to the beer Taliban.
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