A cask ale message for Christmas

It is amazing where I get to in this beer writing business. One day a five star hotel in the metropolis for a posh beer fuelled dinner, the next a wind swept industrial estate in North East Wales.

But 'tis the season to be merry, especially down Wrexham way. There, it's a case of come all ye faithful- for many in this once proud brewing town are certainly very joyful, if not triumphant, as a small but perfectly formed brewing revival emerges there.

The borough's brewing heritage goes back to medieval times and blossomed in the 19th century. Then it boasted 19 breweries, partly due to the water quality. But the end of ale brewing came with rationalisation and the demise of Border Brewery (Marston’s) back in 1984.

And in 2002, Wrexham Lager, the first ever lager brewery in the UK, met its gas-fuelled maker when it became very dispensable to the monolithic Carlsberg-Tetley empire. Now, I know that there are many around north east Wales and south Cheshire who still mourn the sad passing. I take my hat off to the robustness and resilience of their taste-buds. I never liked the stuff. (Nevertheless there was a call for the brew and any brewery closure is sad, not least because of the loss of  jobs.)

Two new brewers
However, the other day I had cause to raise a glass or two to the news that a brewing resurgence is stirring in this corner of the Principality; suddenly not one but two new micro-brewers with some rather interesting cask-conditioned brews.

Step forward young Matthew McGivern of McGivern Ales, who at present is for now working on a very modest 18-gallon-plant since he kicked off in the summer. He’s been supplying the Pant-yr-Ochain, the Cornmill and Harkers, and his Amber Ale and Cascade go very well I'm told. Worth a pint eh?

Matt’s enterprise was quickly followed by the emergence of the Sandstone Brewery which, at a four barrel (144 gallons) brew length, began brewing on the Wrexham Industrial Estate in October and has seen its beer in some B&P pubs as well as several other cask-ale venues around the area.

Both brewers were born out of the small Jolly Brewer operation - set up by Pene Coles - that has kept a lonely brewing flag flying in Wrexham for the past few years. After operating in the home brew market for several years, Pene started brewing her own full mash brews in 2002. After university, Matt, a keen home brewer in his youth, joined her to cut his full brewing teeth.

Earlier this year Pene was persuaded by Camra stalwart and chemist Keith Porter to go the whole hogshead and invest in a much bigger operation. Then they got together with former social worker and real ale enthusiast Sarah Atherton - on sales - and the first brew of the tasty Sandstone Edge quaffing ale rolled out in November. Worth another pint, eh?

As time goes on, no doubt there will be more to say about their beers on these pages. But it was a real pre-Christmas delight to be invited to Sandstone’s launch party just the other day. As I munched on a rather tasty sausage butty - made with their own beer and washed down copious amounts of same - in a very chilly brewery shed on a grey December Sunday afternoon, the camaraderie of this small brewing malarkey gave off a warm glow.

For a moment I reflected on the amazing brotherhood of the micro movement. Matthew was also at the launch. I have been involved in many industries in my PR career, but I have never seen potential competitors collaborate in this way anywhere else. Marvellous. Well, certainly worth another pint, we thought.

As I write about small brewers starting up all over the country for the New Imbiber magazin, it never fails to amaze me how they are always ready to help each other out, sharing their knowledge and experience. It’s at the heart, I think, of the success of this great tidal wave of brewing that has swept the country over the past ten years or so. Sort of goodwill to all men (and lady brewers) all year round.

So, I propose that over the festive season you seek out some cracking cask beer from a local brewer, wherever you are, and raise a glass to the Great British Brewing Revival. It's got to be worth a pint.

A Merry Christmas and a happy cask ale drinking New Year to you all.

Ends