In praise of Harkers' 20 years - unashamedly

Report from a splendid birthday bash

Last night I had a pint of Boddingtons Bitter. The first Bod's for some years, now brewed by Hydes for Inbev, it tasted fine. But I doubt it will ever again be my pint of choice as it was in 1989.

Who can remember what happened, let alone what they were drinking, on any specific day two decades ago? Well, I don’t recall exactly what I was doing the day that the Old Harkers Arms doors were flung open for the first time in Russell Street, Chester.

I do know that - in a neglected area of the city at the time - from my office window just across the road it was an inspiring sight. I promptly did the 30 second dash for a lunchtime pint.

Surrounded by a beer landscape of Greenall's pubs in those days, it was when I had my Ice Cold in Alex moment.In the classic war film the legendary John Mills and his team hit the bar in Alexandria after days fleeing the Nazis through the torrid North African sand. They stare, stunned, at the beer 'so cold there's dew on the outside of the glass'. OK that was lager, but you get my drift. Gazing at an array of hand pulls that splendid day in Harkers was, well, quite similar really.

Anyway, last night I was back for another Bods and a walk down memory lane in Harkers as the first Brunning & Price pub in the north celebrated its 20th. Typical of the B&P style it was just a few laid back beers, no media (except me) no big fuss - just a little well-justified pride modestly expressed by co-founder Jerry Brunning.

The Boddies served to emphasise the affectionate nostalgia of the birthday bash. Chatting with launch landlord Francis (Fran) Hill we recalled the wild times in the early days when expense accounts lunches could be properly enjoyed before the lunch time no-booze gestapo became rampant. Fran now lives 'quietly' in head office where he is still sorting out new pubs

For me the return of Boddingtons also highlighed the huge changes in the beer-scape in recent years. The Cream of Manchester was once the most popular beer, but after changing its recipe and upping its strength it has long ago been usurped by craft beer brands – not least the much celebrated Weetwood Cheshire Cat - for the faithful band of bar stalwarts that haven't moved much over the years.

Thirsty Stalwarts
First brewed just down the road near Tarporley in 1993, it is downed by bucketful, with two or three 18 gallon barrels always ready to go and the bar stalwarts always ready to receive it.

At the birthday bash one of the regulars also in at the start - big Dave - had better recall than I as to the beers on the bar in 1989. He listed Timmie Taylor’s, Thwaites and Oak (now Phoenix) as among the regular brews. Nothing to complain about there in Greenall land. But last night you could sample delights from exciting brewers such as Anglo-Dutch and Purity – unknowns until recent years – as well as Weetwood and B&P’s own ‘Original’, smashing session ale from Phoenix. Now scores of guest ales go through the pumps every year under the watchful eye of ebullient boss Paul Jeffery and youthful beer buyer Dave.

With all this doom and gloom about pubs closing at the rate of some 40 a week we may think this a rather remarkable survival tale, 'tho' it will no doubt go very un-remarked in the mainstream media. So I make no apology for this unashamed praise.

Yes, since Fran first opened the doors, ale has played a big part in Harkers' success. But it is not the whole story. Many pubs in these difficult times may do well to take a close look at the reasons for success.

Some years after the Warrington based brewing dynasty abandoned ale, there is much greater diversity of both pubs and beers in the city. Despite the industry problems, competition grows each year. Nevertheless, the canal side ‘local’, well off the main drag, remains a top destination venue. It has no music, no gaming machines or karaoke nonsense - on a quiet day all you hear is the usual suspects at the bar singing the beer's praises.The pub that was once a warehouse has set the bar for good atmosphere, conviviality, great food and hospitality to attract customers of all types and ages every day of the week. The other day it was even given an airing on Radio 2. And all this without spending a penny on advertising down the years.

I travel around quite a bit visiting breweries and pubs these days. By the nature of the task, I use the train a lot to travel south. And when I return from my ramblings in the flat ale sands of London I almost always take a weary stroll up City Road to relive, just a little, that 'Ice Cold' moment.

To a northern beer writer you see, slipping down that first creamy pint is the cask ale equivalent to sliding into a warm, scented bath - followed a brisk rub down from two geisha girls.That's cask beer for you.

Let's hold that image and raise a glass to Harkers and its next twenty years. I wonder what we will be drinking there then Dave?