Sunday, 31 May 2009

Sparing the blushes, Stationhouse thrives



How's the year going for you?

What with even more failed bankers jiggering off with huge pension pots, politicians pulling up the draw bridge after escaping to their moated idylls (figurative or real), and a government that seems determined to self immolate, a sceptic might might say there's not much change on the national scene since 2010 dawned in a blaze of economic pandemonium.

So how heartening to behold a man who is battling against it all and truly enjoying the sunshine of his new chosen calling. Such a man is Barrie Davidson at Station House Brewery.

Barrie relocated from Ellesmere Port to the Lady Heyes Craft Centre at Frodsham eighteen months ago and now, I discover, is just about to proudly rebrand as Frodsham Brewery (although Stationhouse will remain a trading name).

Seems hardly any time at all since the former council regeneration officer set up shop in the Port in 2004 - he couldn't then find premises in Frodsham. But now, as chairman of the 'Love Frodsham' Campaign, he has regenerated himself in his new 'home', sitting alongside Snugbury Icecream and with glorious views across Cheshire towards Jodrell Bank. And he's up to his neck in beer and business while, it seems, people sip quality craft ales as they peer anxiously about for the green shoots of recovery,

Although now with help on sales and delivery, 'perfectionist' Barrie stoically remains the sole brewer and has an impressive 14 core ales to knock out from the five-barrel-brew-plant. He brews 2-3 times a week to keep the show on the road.

Stationhouse can be found in several B&P pubs; the hugely citrussy Splash, late hopped with Cascade, and the honey tinged Buzzin - bronze medal winner at the Great British Beer Festival 2007 - are particular favourites in both Harkers and the Grosvenor.

As well as brewing for the cask, Barrie is also bottling his brands - all original brews, no blends - and has found a eager market for the bottle-conditioned delights, selling through such places as Bents at Glazebury and The Hollies, on the A49 near Tarporley.

While dedicated to extracting every flavour from an eclectic range of hops -'there's an amazing choice'- more recently he has ventured into the fruit flavoured beer arena with Blush - but only for the bottle.

I am told this goes down particularly well with 'the ladies'. But here I must tread gently. Anyone who reads Beers of the World magazine may appreciate my trepidation. In the latest issue, formidable champion of the female beer drinker Melissa Cole has had another blast at the 'condescending' approach of brewers towards women. Essentially, Melissa condemns brewing special ales for the 'fairer sex'. But both Barrie and his better half Hazel assure me that it works. So Melissa, I boldly venture, can we argue with the market?

Well anyway, Frodsham Brewery/ Station House has developed beers to tackle a range of tastes. Now most of the ales will take their moniker from local places. Hence: Frodsham 800 Ale, to celebrate the town's 8ooth anniversary and Maiden's Cross (Alvanley) based on an old recipe from the erstwhile Walker's of Burton. Frodsham 800 is a golden bitter brewed with relative newcomer hop Nelson Sauvin from New Zealand that delivers the 'crushed gooseberries' flavour of Sauvignon Blanc. Maiden's Cross is a crisp, light and fruity brew with a tangy bitterness from Northdown hops.

Several of the brews will be available at the forthcoming West Cheshire Beer Festival held at Spitting Feathers Brewery, Waverton, on Saturday July 18th. This is the third year that the very enterprising brewer-farmer-come-publican Matthew Walley has got together a group of West Cheshire brewers to show case their wares; it will include Woodlands of Cheshire Cat fame, Northern with their 'soulful' beers and the delightfully scatological WC Brewery.

I was lucky to attend the first fest two years ago when, despite the rain swept summer, there was glorious sun and some great beer and music. We don't yet know about the weather but come rain or shine the beer will definitely be there. So, at least for a day, we can all dip into a bit of Barrie's sunshine.